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The Stepwise Tutorial to Va Form 28 1910

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Hi, my name is Leo and I'm a boat builder and a sailor and I'm on a mission to rebuild and restore this one hundred.And eight year old classic sailing yacht Tallyho now.we've already got the new keel timber in and last week we.Assembled the first pair of new frames out of southern Live Oak this week.I'm gonna be putting those new frames into the boat.But before I do that.I'm going to be cutting out the next pair of new frames and talking a little bit about the templating.Process and how we work out the rollin bevels.So I've just switched this chain to a riffing chain.And I'm hoping that that's going to make it faster to rough out these pieces all the other ways.I've tried probably the big beam sword plunge cutting is the fastest but it's still quite a lot of wastage and.things like this where you don't want to lose too much because you want to use.The other side or another plateau possibly.So I'm now making the template for the next frame that I'm doing now.I'm going to show you how I cut filete the bevels from the body plan.now a couple of people who asked me to.Explain exactly. What are rolling bevel is and why and how we cut them?.So I think the easiest way to show that is just by taking one of our old existing frames as an example.And so if we look at this frame here.We can see that the angle between the side of the frame and the front face of the frame.At the bottom of the hull here is really quite close to square.It's just a few degrees off.Now if we follow the same piece of wood up.To a little bit further up the frame.We can see that up here the angle here between the side of the frame and the front face of the frame.is probably closer to.10 or 15 degrees and yet it's the same piece of wood and it's only a couple of feet away now.All the bevel is is an angle basically when we talk about rolling bevels.We're just talking about that angle between the side on the front face of the frame.Changing as we follow the frame up or down the hull the reason that that angle changes along the length of the frame.it's just that it needs to be the same angle as the.planks that are on the outside of the boat so they can have a large surface area too fast and again securely.now the angle of the inside of the frame also has to.correspond with that shape of the outside of the hull and because on the inside of the frames later on we're gonna put stringers and.Beams shelves or clamps and they also want a flat face to fasten up against securely so to cut that changing angle.Along one piece of the frame or a rolling bevel in the photic.We use this ship saw which is basically a huge bandsaw designed exactly for that purpose.so we don't know how old this saw is could be over a hundred years old possibly and the clever thing about this saw is.That the whole blade assembly rotates on a pivot. So as you're pushing your piece through this bandsaw somebody is going to be over here.Turning this handle and as you turn this handle a series of gears move here.Which actually rotate this entire saw blade? So as one person is pushing through the piece of wood.The person here is reading the angles are marked on the top the side of it and they've got a gauge here.Which corresponds to the angle of the source? So they're rotating the saw blade as that piece goes through it.So first of all, I'm gonna work out the places.That was and that could be any way you want.So I've chosen to make marks every six inches, but I could have got away with less in there.So this is frame ten frame ten eight and frame eleven here.That's from 12, which I've already cut out. I'm skipping frame 11 a right now and doing 11.So the first mark for the bevel.I'm going to measure an inch and a half down from the top of the body section.And that's because the body section is the shape of the entire hull and that includes the deck.so the first inch and a half is the.Cover board, which in simple terms is basically like the deck plank on the furthest outboard edge of the deck.So an inch and a half down is my first mark.That's their very one and then I'm going to measure.millimeters.Distance between this frame and the frame in front of it.Roughly 90 degrees to the frame and the distance between this frame and the frame aft of it at the same position.Now I use Imperial and metric measurements. So for me, it just depends what exactly I'm doing.In most cases are usually pareil unless there's something with a lot of fine measurements and then I find metric. It's just simpler.You'll see here that I have a ruler that has millimeters and inches on it.This rule is made by Xinhua and after trying lots and lots of six-inch rules with mil and inches on it.I can say that this is the best one I've ever owned.So I use this board which is a kind of bevel chief board. And so what's on here is a straight line which represents.this straight line that my ruler makes when I'm measuring between the frames a.right angle to those frames.Then there's three lines perpendicular to that.And those represent the frames of the boat and they are actually spaced at the correct frame spacing 12 inches apart.So now I'm going to measure the bevel board 13 mil in the center on this side.the forward side.Ten mil on this side the frame hopped off the frame. I'm working on it.Then I'm gonna use it Batson.Reason I'm using a baton and not a ruler is at these three points may not be cutting in line.There should be a slight sweep. So I'm gonna push that.Till it reaches the center of this point and I'm gonna describe another line.Then I'm gonna take track to.Place it on here. They record the angle of that line and that angle is two degrees here.So that is my bail at this position what the baton is representing is the plank.They're actually working out the angle of the paint in relation to those frames.So I'm gonna use tape to illustrate.this blue tape is approximately the same width of the frames and.represents those frames.so this would be the frame in front of it and we've put our mark here say.And this would be the frame after that we've put on my about here.So when we spring the baton in between them what we're finding is plank.It's going to cross this frame at this angle.And so it's a represent the plank.We could put a piece of tape here.Which is going to be roughly the right thickness of the plank and so there we're looking at a cross-section of the hull.Looking down on the 3d frames.With a plank butting up against them and showing us the angle that we need to cut the bevel at this point on this frame.For the plank to butt up against it.Nice and tightly with a good surface area the good thing about this method of taking the bevels is that it gives us a true.Bevel from in line with the direction of the frame as the frames going to be going through the sort.Rather than from directly above which will give us an incorrect up. So for example, if we're taking the bevel of this frame.Right here. Then the method I'm describing will give us that level as viewed.from this perspective.There's an eye and not from this perspective.which is directly above which is what we don't want we want dis perspective because.As we run this frame through the bandsaw.This is going to be the orientation of the bandsaw blade in line with the frame as we run up through and cut the bevel.of course, there's very little bevel at this position because.Doing a frame the middle section of the boat. So it's just a very slight bevel two degrees further down on the same frame.I get five to six degrees and then of course the further away.The frames are on the body from each other than the large of the bevel.So I get up here the frames right up at the bow of the boat.Stern the boat then I'll be getting much higher angles and the bevels would be much more critical.but even when it's just a couple of degrees.The more accurate that is when we cut the frames then the less.Fairing you have to do later on so it's worth getting it, right.While I've made a note of the bevel I can just drop these lines out.And do the next one.I've got a sheet here where would the distance for the distance R?.and the angle forward angular and the average angle and then the blank deduction which isn't actually very.Relevant at this point because it's just a standard one 3/8, which is the planking thickness.But as I get into higher bevels that's going to become.another step where I have to make a calculation to.Account for the angle of the plank while I deduct the thickness for it now.I'm sure there are other ways to take their balls.But I think this is one of the most accurate ways and it can't just be done by for instance.looking at the water lines on the half breath plan and.Taking the angle of them at each station because the water lines don't cross the frames at 90 degrees on each station.Hey, I'm Kurt I'm from San Francisco.Bit of the amateur carpenter, you know right now I've been making van interiors for VW van Diggins.Making some feet for the fence in front of the ship saw.Mm-hmm so that we can remove it so you can make frames faster.Yeah, let's say Benetton's missing on getting the shop running well and trying to do things that are gonna allow.Leo to work faster. Yeah, and then helping out you whenever you.So right now as I'm speaking.got a truck arriving amazingly Jim the trucker has.Picked up the live oak the remaining live oak from Georgia and has brought it up here. Hi.Good to meet you good you too. How was the journey up good? Yeah good. Yeah ring.Yeah, my name is John and I'm from I'm from Stockholm Sweden.I started both billing for two years in Stockholm. And yeah now I'm here. I'm.helping Levi out with with his boat and visiting a friend and having a.great time.excellent.I'm cutting off the fastenings for for the banking and.Replacing them with a screw to make it easy to then later replace the frames.so right now I'm just getting this frame ready to go into the boat and.So I'm just cleaning up the edges on the bottom face of the frame.Which is gonna sit on the keel and the inside face, which is going to be notched into the side of the keel slightly.So these two faces are pretty much grad to each other.The side face is vertical and the bottom face which is going to sit on top of the keel is square to that in one.dimension but in the other dimension.It's slightly sloped to match the one degree angle of the keel timber sloping upwards.Now this area of the frames going to be pocketed or notched into the keel timber.It's only half an inch and then at the bottom of that on this line.I'm gonna actually cut this so that the frame doesn't end in the feather edge at the bottom.Now it was done this way originally and so I'm basically just copying that design the only slight change. I'm making is that the.Bottom of the frame as they built them was square.And so the bottom of the notch was square now.I'm just putting a slight angle on it and that's just to make it more likely that.She was ever in a position where she's drying out and in the rain and fresh water was to get down.to the bottom of the frames.then it wouldn't be a water trap it would drain off and hopefully down the.Inside of the Garbett and out the rabbit.That's hopefully an unlikely scenario and I'm really just thinking of if she was left out some reason outside on the hard.And in the rain for a long time and hopefully that won't ever happen. Right? We're now gonna try putting the first framing.So we've just put in the first two new frames into the boat and what we see here is a really interesting.Representation of how much the betters changed shape and how different it is on either side.So this is a side of the boat, which hasn't been.Repaired or modified too much and you can see that the new frame fits in there really quite nicely.It's busting up on the keel and it follows the shape of the hull.but there is a gap here between the planks and the frames and that's because the.Old frames are lowered down in this area of the boat.and I think that's because they've sagged over time and say the curve of the hull has become lower and.So these new frames are going to bring that part of the boat back up.To their original design now on the side where she was badly damaged and then repaired this frame is a long way off.Actually fitting the shape of the hull so as it is now the planks are.Holding the center section of the frame way too far towards the center of the boat.So at the moment the bottom of the frame is a good flip of being able to be where it wants to be.so now what we can do is take the clamps off the.planks which are still on one plank at a time in the area where the planks are holding the frame in and.Then ease those planks out.with blocks and wedges and re clamp them and.Then that will give room for the new frame to go in its proper position and that I'll be changing the boat.Back to its original shape again, but pushing outwards on this side in the center section of the frame.Whereas on this side its pulling it inwards in that area of the frame.So what.Young or John depending on your pronunciation has been doing.Taking out the temporary screws and clamps on these planks in the certain areas where we need two.driving wedges into them between the frames and the planks and then clamping them up again with blocks in between.And make room for the frame to go in its proper position.So this frame is roughly in position now and.I'm just going to measure from the other frame centers to get it as accurately as possible in the right place.And then I'm going to figure out a way to cut the notch to the keel here for this to be set in two.So I've measured it to the right position on the heel, that's the bottom now.I'm just checking with a spirit level to make sure it's plumb that means vertical.Because I've now got the keel on the correct angle in relation to level.So I've got the boat on headlines and I can just use a spirit level and get these.Frames vertical as I put them in and then I'll know they're in the right position once I cut the notch in the keel.Then I'll be able to.put them in the right position at the bottom and then.Use a big boards to tie them together at the top and make sure they're in exactly the right position at the top.in terms of their inboard outboard position and.They're centered on the centerline to cut the pocket to take the bottom of the frame.I'm just going to butt up these pieces against it.Nice and tight on either side clamp them on I can't do the same on the bottom because it's got an angle on it.So I'm just going to mark that with a pencil.On the inside face of it and then when I move the frame I'll then clamp another piece on bottom here.So the first frame has been notched in on the starboard side.And now I'm going to notch in the heel of this frame, which is its partner frame on port side.And I'm notching them into the keel a half-inch.And then if that doesn't make everything line up exactly as it should.I'm adjusting that notch very slightly to make sure that those frames are going in exactly the right place as compared to the lofting plan.in relation to the water lines.Which are the horizontal ones and the futtock lines which are vertical once they're both them.I can make sure that they're both correct at the top.I can tie them together.reference them to the centerline and then that'll be the first set of frames and then I can start clamping the planks of them and.At that stage, we're adding strength back into the boat. At the moment there's not much strength in the boat, especially on this side.Where we've had to spring lock the planks out to actually be able to fit the frame into its proper place.So I've just planed one edge of this long 2x8.So it's nice and straight and this is going to be the brace between the two frames on the 12th station.it's what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark the centerline on it in the middle of the board and then I'm gonna.take some measurements for the lofting plan of.How far out from the centerline the frame should be on load line a which is two feet above the waterline.I'm going to mark that on this piece of wood and.Then I'm going to take this into the boat and then put it into position line up the center line with the center line.Plumbob and then line up my own marks the frames and move the frames.However much they need to be moved so that they fit in with this and then clamp it together.Okay, so I've just put this beam in here and it's.Connected to the two new frames and on this beam.I've got marked my centerline and I've got my the outside of the frame.At loadline a which is two feet above the water line. So when this is in position, I can clamp it to the frames.I can line up.These plumb Bob's which will marking the center line with the centerline of the beam.And then I can line up the frames on the outside.So they're in line with the position where the frame should be according to the lofting plan in terms of distance from the centerline.Because of course they can pivot pretty well on the bottom.Even though they're notched into the keel.Because I've planed the top of this being flat I can also put a level on it and that's another way to check that all.My lines are correct. Because between the load line marks on each frame, that should be perfectly level. I.Am Cortland Barnes, I.atrophy in front of computer screens for a living and have always been interested in not just boats but anything mechanical that moves and.Saw this project and said well this I gotta see and you've been kind enough to let me come \"help\".You've been helping. I've been having a great time. Thank you.We are removing, what is this the third frame.Getting ready to be replaced. So.Everything's theoretically been sawzoled out. So these fasteners are supposedly not fastening. So it's just a matter of unscrewing them.I'm clamping them and I'm told everything will magically come apart.Some of the other jobs that got done this last week by volunteers was.Making these fence panels movable.which has opened up the area around the ship saw a lot better and also putting these kick boards and.Floorboards down around the ships or which makes it safer. And of course, there's a whole load of other jobs, which get done.Which just don't make it onto video.But it's been quite a productive week and we should soon really be ramping up into a sort of high-speed frame production mode, hopefully.All right, well that's it for now, so thanks a lot for watching and a massive.Thank you to everyone who's donated or otherwise supported the turning Hope Project.It makes a really huge difference and it means I'm able to take the time to make and edit these videos.So I really appreciate it and I'll see you guys next time when I got a pretty interesting jig.Which I want to show you that hopefully will make things move along a bit faster.

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Va Form 28 1910 FAQs

Check the below common problems about Va Form 28 1910 . Communicate with directly if you still have other queries.

Need help? Contact support

Why do ex-employers refuse to fill out the VA form 21-4192 for a vet?

Some do, some don't. Obviously, if you didn't part on good terms it's not likely to happen. If you were a temp or part-time worker they may not have bothered keeping your records. The best thing veterans can do is hand carry the form to their former employer, if practical.

Do military members have to pay any fee for leave or fiancee forms?

First off there are no fees for leaves or requests for leave in any branch of the United States military. Second there is no such thing as a fiancée form in the U.S. military. There is however a form for applying for a fiancée visa (K-1 Visa)that is available from the Immigration and Customs Service (Fiancé(e) Visas ) which would be processed by the U.S. State Department at a U.S. Consulate or Embassy overseas. However these fiancée visas are for foreigners wishing to enter the United States for the purpose of marriage and are valid for 90 days. They have nothing to do with the military and are Continue Reading

How can I fill out Google's intern host matching form to optimize my chances of receiving a match?

I was selected for a summer internship 2016. I tried to be very open while filling the preference form: I choose many products as my favorite products and I said I'm open about the team I want to join. I even was very open in the location and start date to get host matching interviews (I negotiated the start date in the interview until both me and my host were happy.) You could ask your recruiter to review your form (there are very cool and could help you a lot since they have a bigger experience). Do a search on the potential team. Before the interviews, try to find smart question that you are Continue Reading

How do I fill out the form of DU CIC? I couldn't find the link to fill out the form.

Just register on the admission portal and during registration you will get an option for the entrance based course. Just register there. There is no separate form for DU CIC.

How do you know if you need to fill out a 1099 form?

It can also be that he used the wrong form and will still be deducting taxes as he should be. Using the wrong form and doing the right thing isnt exactly a federal offense

How do I store form values to a JSON file after filling the HTML form and submitting it using Node.js?

My counter question would be, why do you want to save it to a file? If you just needed it saved, you can store it in localstorage which exists within your browser. To write to an external file requires APIs for file writing which is usually done on the server side due to security concerns.

What does VA vocational rehab pay?

I'm actually going through this process right now, and education benefits such as the Post 9/11 GI Bill only last for three years. I'm not sure about the Voc Rehab, so I don't want to give false information.

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